Heads up, now. What we have here is one killer new restaurant. Opened last week in the former home of Cabannas at Northampton, Rubie Sky might be one of the most unique, most impressive dining operations to debut here since Jack Shoop's well remembered Golden Pheasant. Unique in its way of stitching fine dining into a glamorous, yet casual personality. Impressive in its creative, handsomely presented cuisine; in its enlightened wine offerings; in a staff whose resumes read like a regional culinary Who's Who, and in a striking, if unpretentious, do-over of the old Cabannas interiors. Rubie Sky creator and proprietor Sean Laban is a young man with smarts and a laser eye for quality. Not himself a longtime restaurateur, he sought out the best talent and counsel available for everything from interior design to the choicest dessert sauternes. For executive chef he nabbed the heavily experienced Joe Richardson, most recently of Andrew's 228 and Cafe Cabernet. Richardson's sous-chef, C.J. Riley, cooked at Andrew's Second Act, then for several subsequent years in New Orleans before returning to Tallahassee and Albert's Provence. For general manager Laban lured veteran restaurateur David Ferguson out of semi-retirement in Mexico Beach. Ferguson long has been a familiar face at Andrew's, The Golden Pheasant, Killearn Country Club, Cafe Cabernet and Albert's Provence. He once owned Cranberry's, Tallahassee's first tapas bar. And so go the distinctive credentials, from floor managers and headwaiter Roy Rodriguez to young Matt, who cut his teeth on table service at the Ruth Chris Steak House in Jacksonville. Doorside valet parking allows direct entry into a small lobby. To the right is the sizeable, full-service Sky Bar, beyond which is an expansive veranda equipped with propane patio heaters and fold-back see-through curtains for chilly weather. To the left lies the renovated dining room, all beige and brick red, its tables laid with heavy white linens, beige overlays, stemmed glassware and small, red-shaded candle lamps. Can lamps, sunken in the newly lowered red ceiling, and conical, contemporary wall sconces provide further low lighting. High on one wall, a skyscape flooded in red light echoes the restaurant's name and theme. While genteel amenities abound, and European back-and-front table service is nothing if not soignee, dining-room patrons (a judge and two well-known cardiologists spotted, one evening) will be comfortable in anything from dressy casual to coat and tie. For tapas and drinks in the bar or on the veranda, the code is even more relaxed. As in other venues known for exceptional culinary talent - Cypress and Food Glorious Food, for example - we left choices in recent review dinners to the chef's discretion. The results brought course after course of original, artistically garnished dishes, chosen from a menu of amply varied food types. Our appetizer samplings were priced (in their full-course size) from $6.95 for slices of Fried Green Tomato layered with herbed chevre cheese, black-pepper tomato jam and basil, to $10.95 for Grilled Soft Shell Crab in a watercress Brie sandwich with pancetta lardons and (noticeably over-salted) Dijon creme fraiche. Mid-priced tastings included mouth-watering New Zealand Greenlip Mussels, steamed with Belgian Stella Artois lager, and Smoked Duck, its house-smoked slices of duck breast served with cranberry pear compote. Also Crispy Calamari, its strips quickly and tenderly fried, set on superb sundried tomato marinara, and with citrus-truffle aioli and basil oil. What a gateway to dinner. When daily lunch and Sunday brunch service begin Jan. 28, or for light supper in the interim, we recommend Warm Goat Cheese Salad ($8.95), a creative construction of heirloom tomatoes, artichoke hearts, hearts of palm, cashews and chervil-shallot vinaigrette. Or light, subtly spiced Sausage and Chicken Gumbo, a near meal in itself. At main-course time, best-selling Cast Iron Seared Filet Mignon ($24.95) partnered with crisp, slim haricots verts and grape tomatoes, cashews and fresh basil, whipped potatoes and bourbon demi-glace, made for a downright smashing dinner. Snapper St. Charles ($18.50) arrived with crab meat, toasted pecans and lemon scallion butter in a flurry of crispy sweet-potato ribbons. White Marble Farms Pork Strip ($17.95) came with tiny sweet-potato gnocchi with sage brown butter, grilled asparagus and onion. Major-league diners might consider the ultra-hearty New Zealand Leg and Rack of Lamb ($21.95) served with roasted fingerling potatoes, grilled portobello mushroom and shallot mint confiture. Highland Estate Hawkeye cabernet sauvignon (glass, $10.50) does it justice. Dessert minded? Chocolate Mousse in a Chocolate Tulip is a delight to both eye and palate. And a sampler of Cremes Brulees in green tea, spice tea and Earl Grey flavors is an experience not to be missed. As if Rubie Sky weren't nice enough already, a portion of the proceeds from its Grand Opening on Monday evening will benefit the Big Bend Hospice. Rubie Sky; 5 hats Average tab: $30, dinner and a glass of wine Dress code: Dressy casual to dressy Wheelchair accessible: Yes Beverage service: Full Smoking: On veranda Reservations: Suggested Originally published January 19, 2007 
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